![]() ![]() This included wiring prep, building the amplifier rack, cutting and building the subwoofer enclosure and more. In part 2, I walked through all of the preparation I did before heading down to the truck to install all of the components. You can find a list of all of the parts that I used throughout this build on my 2021 F-150 Stereo Buildsheet. ![]() In part 1, I detailed out all of the various decisions and research I did in order to decide on the products and ultimately purchase everything that I needed to make this installation happen. In part 1 and 2 of this multi-series stereo install, I went through the details of planning out my system and preparing all of the components for installation. Tuning with the AudioControl SA-4100i RCA Mic & Axxess AXDSPX.Setting Gains with SMD DD-1 Distortion Detector.Setting the Factory EQ Flat via FORScan.If you find a good BF deal on one, its a nice option. The kicker Q-class 4-channel is a great little amp that allows the option to use its built-in DSP with a PC or iPad app, or its standard crossovers with the DSP turned off. That would power your active front components and rear door speakers, too (if desired), or a single 4-ohm subwoofer with channels 5&6 bridged. I think there was a 6-channel Arc XDi V2 amplifier in the classifieds here as well. There were some various Helix DSP models in the classifieds here. You can either bridge the 4-channel to a front set of passive crossover components, or run active, powering each midwoofer & tweeter individually with a DSP in front of the amp. You haven't chosen a subwoofer(s) yet, so their voice coil configuration will determine what subwoofer amplifier and how much power you will need. I would go with a 4-channel amplifier for now. Is your OEM stereo the 8" screen or small screen?ĭoes yours have the center channel speaker/grille in the top of the dash?Ĭan't remember if it's 6.5" or 6"x9" in the front doors?Īre there OEM tweeters in the A-pillars? If not, the triangular sail panel plastic trim works great to mount tweeters. ![]() I hate using the phrase, "Trust Me", but in this case it applies and the quality of the source signal will be Night & Day compared to the OEM head unit. If you don't want to replace the OEM head unit, then my suggestion would be to use a portable DAP, iPhone/iPad, or Android Smartphone connected directly to your DSP via USB Digital, Digital Coaxial or Optical, or Analog Line Level out of a good DAP. (Again) My personal experience with a multitude of Ford's MyTouch/MySync/MyFord OEM source units is that the output signal is pure rubbish. They will be releasing a 10" version as well.) (EDIT there is also an 8" "floating display" head unit with digital optical output from Stinger called the ELEV8. And they have beautiful, HD, capacitive-touch displays.the best on the market. Those will guarantee pristine, full range, unadulterated 5v preamp outputs that do not clip even at full volume. For ultimate SQ & overall features I would highly recommend the 20 Kenwood eXcelon Reference head units.the 2019 DDX996XR or DNX996XR (NAV) or 2018 DDX9905S or DNX995S. With either one you could install a high-quality aftermarket double-DIN Touchscreen of your choice. It should retain nearly ALL of the OEM features, HVAC controls & backup camera, etc.įast-Forward to 7:46 and then again to 25:38 in the following video by 5 Star Car Stereo. I'm not certain that it will fit & work with your exact F-150 MY & OEM stereo options, but you should check it out. It's the PAC RadioPRO 4 #RPK4-FD2101 + RPA-16P5V Expansion Harness. Here is the Beta-Test install of the just released iDataLink Maestro MFT1 8" Ford F-150 MyFord Touch radio replacement kit.Īnd PAC Audio is releasing a complete dash kit that allows you to replace the 8" OEM Head Unit as well. I'm going to copy & paste my own quote from another similar thread. Needless to say, the owners of both systems were stunned by the difference. In both, when playing identical tracks and switching between the Ford Sync OEM source an both the RCA analog or coaxial digital output of my inexpensive and older portable iBasso DX90 DAP, the output quality and clarity from the DAP was NIGHT & DAY better. In two of the Ford Sync vehicles that I've personally installed systems in, I also pre-ran a pair of separate analog RCA's and a digital coaxial & Toslink optical cable from the DSP to the glove box in the vehicle for later upgrading. My experience with several of the OEM Ford Sync systems is less than stellar in terms of SQ, and that includes getting a clean, full-range signal to feed your subwoofer amplifier. I realize that a lot of people really like the Ford Sync features, but if you're going for truly good SQ, the OEM system is less than ideal. Regarding the F-150 underseat subwoofer boxes, also check out: ![]()
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